Day 28. The road less travelled.

‘What about a walk?’ asked Richard.

‘Why not’ replied Wendy, trustingly.

What Richard had in mind was Il Sentiero degli Dei, a 4km walk from the Amalfi Coast hilltop towns of Agerola to Nocelle.

‘The good news is that the track is mostly downhill’, added Richard, not exactly explaining all the details.  

After a forty minute bus ride from Amalfi, the walk begins in the picturesque town of Agerola about 650 metres above sea level. The purchase of a couple of bread rolls and some prusciutto was Wendy’s clever idea to fuel the walkers. The track was subtly, but quite consistently marked, beginning in the village and then heading out through small farms.

As the walk unfolds the warning on the website, that the track was unsuitable for those suffering with vertigo, begins to make sense. The view is indeed panoramic, breathtaking and quite extraordinary. It is a rocky path, with some uneven steps and although mostly downhill, there are several uphill climbs as well. The track winds around the mountains, slowly descending towards the village of Nocelle.

Il Sentiero degli Dei translates as the ‘Path of the Gods’. The name indicates that even the locals recognise that this track is something very special. We have done many walks in many wonderful places around the world, and this track is definitely amongst the best we have ever enjoyed. Although mystically divine, humans deserve credit for engineering and maintaining the historic path, still used by farmers, woodsmen and shepherds. Vineyards, olive groves, vegetable gardens, chooks, goats and donkeys cling to the almost vertical cliffs with the ingenious use of stone terraces.

Arriving at the town of Nocelle about two hours later the choice is to either catch the bus or walk down the steps to Positano. Walking seems the best option. 1500 steps and 90 minutes later we arrive in the quintessential seaside town of Positano, as the descent was about 450 metres, we enjoy what is possibly the finest ice-cream in the history of hiking.  

On the bus back to Amalfi we can finally enjoy the view from the road, as we are not driving. Ankles, knees and legs feel their advancing age but ‘the road less traveled’ produces the greatest blessing.