Day 35. Arrivederci

The village of Belgirate is so off the tourist map that it does not even get a mention in the Italian edition of Lonely Planet.

The little town is set on the western shore of Lake Maggiore, which is shared between Northern Italy and Switzerland.

Our walk today is unplanned, unmapped, unhurried and unbelievable. We walk along the unspoiled lake admiring the villas, gardens, parks and snow capped mountains in the distance. This playground of the 19^th Century nuevo rich is now a little down at heel but still retains its historic elegance. We walk to Lesa, the next village, and climb the hill into the old town unspoiled by tourists yet dripping with charm. We discover a cobbled lane that becomes a dirt track winding behind the village and linking Lesa to the village of Bilgirate. From here we look down into the grand gardens of the villas below. Some are beautifully manicured, others are over grown with privet, bamboo and blackberries.

Our hotel is criticized on Trip Advisor for being run down, with 1970s décor. In reality the décor is trapped in a 1950s time warp, which is actually delightfully retro. The staff are friendly, the risotto with mushroom, cheese and pear is sublime and the view is unbridled while the music playing softly in the background is Ella Fitzgerald and Frank Sinatra.

Unexpectedly, after dinner as we prepare to pack to come home, we hear a brass band playing in the street below. We throw on our warm clothes and rush downstairs to investigate and join the 9pm candle lit memorial procession through the narrow cobbled streets of the village in remembrance of the one who died for our sins. The march ends in a church service short on words but big on emotion, theatre and passion. We are moved and humbled to be included in the village’s Good Friday adoration. As they pass the peace we are greeted as family.

So ends Un Momento Prego (one moment – if you please). We are very grateful to have had this opportunity to explore many wonderful places and are so pleased that you, our friends and family have been able to share the adventure with us.

We are looking forward to coming home, but sad to leave Italia.

Arrivederci