Day 14. Split levels

Diocletian was the last Roman Emperor to do his best to wipe out the Christian Church. In spite of his best efforts the church survived, as did his palace, which remains the core of the city of Split today. Split is a busy metropolis and ferry terminal with layers of history woven into the fabric of this modern city.

Without the help of a funicular, we climb hundreds of steps – some modern concrete, others crumbling stone, up the hill and through a pine forest to a lookout above the city. At 180 metres above sea level the view is breathtaking. The old city and new town are framed by the crystal blue Adriatic Sea on one side and jagged snow capped mountains on the other.

However, our lasting picture of Split is not so pretty, but extraordinary nonetheless. With help from our Navlady we search out the remains of a 9km Roman aqueduct, which was built to service Diocletian’s palace. Amazingly preserved, this historical and engineering masterpiece now exists next to a busy, elevated, four-lane highway. Below it the dusty industrial life of Split continues as trucks weave their way beneath the arches on a fairly rough, but quite busy road. The side of one arch bears the scars of encounters with lorries that were too large to fit through the narrow space. Beside this piece of antiquity, less than 5km from town, untidy farmers are growing olives and a variety of vegetables in decrepit plastic glasshouses.    

 

Industry, commerce, agriculture and a high-speed motorway all within a stone’s throw of an ancient treasure  – an insight into Croatia, seventeen centuries after Diocletian built his retirement home in Split.